The Regency Town of Cheltenham in Gloucestershire

By: Blue Badge Tour Guide - Anne Bartlett

The Promenade, Cheltenham

Cheltenham is considered one of the most complete Regency towns in England.
The Regency period is part of the late Georgian times. It was when King George III became insane in 1811, but lived until 1820. So his eldest son George became the Prince Regent, and ruled for nine years in the King's stead. Then when his father died George became King George IV and reigned in his own right from 1820-1830. Because of the Prince Regent’s huge influence on fashion, this is known as The Regency Period. Regency architecture was classical in nature. It used the traditional style of building of ancient Greece and Rome. And the typical Regency upper or middle-class houses were built in brick and covered in stucco or painted plaster with fluted Greek columns or pilasters, and carefully moulded cornices with beautiful decorative ironwork. So the building style is best described as "refined elegance".

How did Cheltenham develop from an insignificant medieval village to what you see today? Well surprisingly it’s thanks to a flock of pigeons and a very poorly king George III.

Back in 1716 a farmer called William Mason had bought a field in Bayshill (which is where the Ladies College now stands) and had the intention of farming it, but he noticed that pigeons were continually pecking near a trickle of mineral water running at the edge of the field. Spa towns such as Bath and Tunbridge Wells were becoming increasingly popular as health resorts for the wealthy. With this in mind, Mason developed the spring, fenced it, and built a thatched hut over it. He sold glasses of the mineral water to the public and his business venture was moderately successful.

William Mason retired and the estate passed to his daughter and son in law, Henry Skillicorne, a sea captain. Henry had a good eye for business and developed the potential of the Bayshill site turning it into a profitable enterprise.

In 1788 King George III had a nasty bilious attack and was recommended the Cheltenham waters by his doctor. So, leaving Windsor castle on 12th July 1788 he arrived in Cheltenham with his family to stay with Lord Fauconberg at his Bayshill House. The Royal family were here for five weeks.

The accounts show that it was a relaxed informal visit. The King would rise early and visit the well at 6 o’clock in the morning to drink the waters. He’d go off on his own riding out to the Cotswolds or he would walk around the town talking to shop keepers or passers by. It was a happy successful visit and by the time the royal party were to leave on the 16th August all Cheltenham came out to see them off – the gentles on one side and the commons on the other, and a band played God Save the King.

Pittville Pump Rooms, Cheltenham

Following the visit of King George III, Cheltenham was on the map, it was a Spa town to be visited. Arthur Welesley, later to become the Duke of Wellington, visited Cheltenham four times, and found relief for his liver complaint caused by a long period of service in India and he recommended the waters to his officers.

Visitors to the town increased and accommodation was needed. Speculators came and lodging houses went up at a great rate. There was a search to find more springs and new wells were opened.

Montpellier Pump Rooms, Cheltenham

After the first, named Royal Well, there was Montpellier Spa, Sherbourne Spa (where the Queen’s Hotel now stands) Vittoria Spa, Cambray Spa, Alstone Spa and Pittville Spa; business was booming. Assembly rooms were built for balls, concerts, card games and billiards. Theatres developed. Gardens were laid out with bandstands and, walks and rides so the fashionable people could promenade with their friends and see and be seen. Here was an opportunity for new friendships to develop, a chance to flirt, to find an aristocratic husband or a wealthy wife, to flaunt new clothes, to frequent the coffee houses and tea rooms, visit bookshops and complain about the extortionate prices.

This was now the Regency period, visiting a spa had become an established social custom. Cheltenham became the Merriest Sick Resort on Earth and probably in most cases the benefits to health were coincidental.

Gustav Holst's statue, Imperial Gardens,
Cheltenham

Cheltenham has two famous sons. Gustav Holst was born here on 21st September 1874 and his birthplace 4, Clarence Street, is a typical Victorian terraced house and a delightful museum which honours his life and tells the story of the man and his music. Some of his personal belongings including his piano are on display. There is a bronze statue of him in Imperial gardens facing the town hall where he attended a 2 hour festival of music in his honour in 1927. He was invited to conduct Somerset Rhapsody and his most celebrated work The Planets. (d 1934).

Dr Edward Wilson the Antarctic Explorer who died with Captain Scott on his return from the South Pole in March 1912 was born in Montpellier Terrace on 23rd July 1872. (So, just 2 years difference in their ages.) Wilson went to Cheltenham College before going to Cambridge to read Natural Science and medicine. There is a statue to him in the Promenade which was sculptured by Lady Scott and there is also a gallery dedicated to him in the museum nearby.

Cheltenham is the Headquarters of the National Hunt (horse racing over hurdles) which culminates in the Gold Cup Festival from 15th – 18th March next year. The crowds, over 200,000 people attend over the 4 days, and over £500 million pounds will be bet on the results of just 26 races. The Race Course, set in the lee of the Cotswold Hills attracts royalty, celebrities, the great, the good and the fashionable. The carnival atmosphere gives residents a sense of occasion whether they are involved or not.  There is so much more to see in Cheltenham....

For a group guided tour of Cheltenham and the surrounding area as part of a coach tour or a special guided walk of Cheltenham's historic town centre. Contact anne@tourandexplore.com